Soup Challenge 1: Drew Bent (Lola 55) - Pho Hoa
Pho Hoa Special Combo #1: Rare steak / well done brisket & flank / tendon & tripe
Photo by: Arlene Ibarra
Drew met me at Pho Hoa in City Heights (47th and El Cajon Blvd.) and we sat among the busy dining room for lunch. He mentioned that this restaurant only served beef pho, no chicken/seafood/yadda yadda yadda. They did one thing and they did it WELL. He compared it to In-N-Out, “They are known for being one of the best fast food burgers because they have such a limited menu and do the same thing over and over using different variations but do it so well. For me, Pho Hoa and pho in general is about balance. Not overdone, but everything is done well. I also don’t feel stuffed when I leave because the broth isn’t too rich and heavy.” I looked around the restaurant and noticed everyone eating their pho using their own method. Drew ordered the #1 Special Combo that basically had all the meats! He usually orders the rare steak on the side and showed me how to use a small side dish to dip the meat into a sriracha/hoisin sauce mix. We both added all of the accoutrements to our bowls (minus jalapenos because I'm lame and can't eat spicy food anymore) and I added a shit ton of lime to mine because that’s how I do. He said there was no wrong way to eat the pho so with chopsticks in one hand and soup spoon in the other we dug in and I immediately noticed how wonderful the broth was. In fact, I kept using my spoon to taste the broth alone after making it my own with the sauces, spices and citrus provided.
If you think about it, that’s what really sets a good pho apart from the others since most are generally the same basic ingredients and this bowl proved that point. We spoke to the owner whose father owned the restaurant previously and he mentioned that there were four LARGE pots of beef broth in various stages in the kitchen but all were made the same way. The space was formerly a pool hall/bar so the kitchen had limited resources which ended up being a blessing to the restaurant as they could only serve a limited menu, which eventually became their signature here in San Diego. Service was VERY attentive and the servers (I noticed almost all male) were moving like their lives depended on it. The place was packed from start to finish over our long lunch and every table surrounding us had at least one turnover before we finished. I also tried the salty plum drink for the first time because why the hell not. Not my style but at least I can say I tried it!
Side note, when I worked in City Heights at the YMCA (1999-2012) I would ask local Vietnamese guests where they ate their pho and they mentioned Pho Hoa many times. Apparently I was an idiot and never made it there until now and I’m glad I finally experienced what so many people think is the best Pho in San Diego. Pho Hoa, thank you for doing it and doing it well. Pho, not just for hangovers you guys!
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